Дайвинг. Яхты. Парус

Список источников >Нехудожественная литература >Путешествия. Хобби. Фото. Спорт >Спорт >Дайвинг. Яхты. Парус >

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Автор: Peter Heller
Год: 2010
Издание: Free Press
Страниц: 336
ISBN: 0743294203
Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its...
Добавлено: 2013-10-22 15:38:24

Видео о книгах:

Это интересно...

Наши контакты


© 2009-2016, Список Литературы